Category Archives: Boat Maintenance

How Do I Choose the Correct Supermarine Paint?

In the vast market of marine paint there are so many differing products to choose from that it is easy to be overwhelmed! We at the Bottom Paint Store want to make this part of the painting process as easy for you as possible. In this How To Article, we will briefly consider a few popular Supermarine Paints and when one product might be used in place of another.

Note: None of the Supermarine Products mentioned are Bottom Paints or Antifouling. For more information about which antifouling paint to select for your boat, please click this link. The products here are designed for application both above and below the waterline. Just because a paint product is not “bottom paint” or an antifouling coating does not mean that it can’t be used on the bottom of a boat.  Click the links to go directly to the product page. Read over the Description, Specifications, and How to Use tabs for more detailed information.

Supermarine Revolution Paint

  • Supermarine RevolutionBest choice if applying by roller or brush – self levels very well
  • Single stage formula is easy to work with
  • Choice of sheen and wide color variety
  • Non-toxic to humans and pets when fully cured
  • Prime most surfaces with SM-664D Etching Primer

 

Supermarine Mono Epoxy Paint

  • Mono EpoxyBest choice if applying with spray gun – spraying yields better results than brush or rolling
  • Single stage epoxy formula – less hassle than a 2 part epoxy
  • Choice of sheen and wide color variety
  • Non-toxic to humans and pets when fully cured
  • Prime most surfaces with SM-664D Etching Primer

 

Supermarine Aqueous Epoxy Paint 

  • SM-3000Supermarine’s Water-based Epoxy coating – thin and clean up with tap water
  • May be applied to existing paint in sound condition without primer
  • Choice of sheen and wide color variety
  • Non-toxic to humans and pets when fully cured
  • Prime most new surfaces with SM-664D Etching Primer

 

Supermarine 2 Part Epoxy Paint

  • sm-2020Best choice if you need a super durable coating – 2 part epoxy is the Supermarine workhorse product
  • Can be used on many surfaces and in many applications – very versatile
  • Choice of sheen and wide color variety
  • Non-toxic to humans and pets when fully cured
  • For Primer recommendation see Product Specifications Tab

 

Supermarine Ironside Urethane Paint

  • Supermarine IronsideBest choice for “Top of the Line” durability – The Ultimate rough and tough coating
  • Withstands temperatures up to 500° F and corrosive chemicals
  • Two Component Acrylic Polyurethane finish
  • Choice of sheen and wide color variety
  • For Primer recommendation see the Product Specifications Tab

 

medical kit

Build an ‘Abandon Ship’ Ditch Bag

Any boat cruising off shore needs an emergency ditch bag for unplanned situations. Being prepared means never assuming that rescue will come before you would need things in a bag, one can never predict circumstances or weather. Having a life raft or kit that comes with your vessel may not have everything you want or need as minimal gear is all that is included so building your own insures your needs are met.

The bag should be water resistant to insure it doesn’t fill immediately with water and sink. Purchase one that is yellow or international orange and you can attach reflector strips for added visibility with a flashlight. A throw bag can be back up as needed.

Clearly label the bag so everyone on board knows what it is keep it in a handy place.

Rescue items can include:

Survival Items can include:

Other items depending on space:

Check your bag every season and before a long voyage for charged items and batteries needed. For added information on boat safety, please see the available DVD’s.

 

How to Apply Awlgrip Topcoat to an Aluminum Hull

Awlgip Marine PaintsFirst Identify the paint that is there. Is it compatible?

If yes – Sand, Primer, Paint

If no – the previous coating needs to be taken down. Sand with 80 grit paper until the coating is gone. Sand blasting is not recommended because it takes away the aluminum itself.

How do you know if previous paint is compatible with Awlgrip? Perform this test:

  1. Need a rag and some Lacquer thinner
  2. Sand the surface with 80 grit sand paper
  3. Apply lacquer thinner to the rag and hold it on the sanded area.
  4. Put a piece of plastic on to to hold the rag so the Lacquer thinner doesn’t evaporate.
  5. Hold rag for 35-45 min.
  6. Remove rag slowly. Is surface bubbling or lifting? If no, scrape surface with the blade of a knife. If the paint comes off with the blade or the paint feels rubbery you have identified an acrylic based paint. Awlgrip may be applied on top of it. If the surface was bubbling or lifting, the paint is not compatible and must be removed.

D6600 CF WashII. Apply Awl-Wash Primer CF (Mix Part A and Part B) within 4 hours of cleaning the surface. This provides excellent adhesion to the aluminum surface. Awl-Wash CF can be overcoated with primers after 1 hour of application. Maximum recoat time without sanding is 6 months.

III. Apply a Primer to the Awl-Wash Primer CF. There are 2 main choices.

  1. 545 Epoxy Primer – Thin, building primer. Usually applied when there is no need to fill scrapes or gouges.
  2. Awlquick – a medium build, primer/surfacer. Applied to a surface that needs to be filled where there are scrapes or gouges. Awlquick Base + Converter.

IV.  Apply a topcoat.

  1. Awlgrip – may be brush rolled or sprayed – usually lasts 7-10 years.
  2. Awlcraft – must be sprayed only – usually lasts 4-6 years.

For more information on Awlgrip vs. Awlcraft, click this link.

Hawk Epoxy System

How do I choose Hawk Epoxy Catalyst and Fillers?

R1 Epoxy Resin – a smooth, low-viscosity liquid epoxy resin. With a variety of Hawk Epoxy Catalysts, it can be cured under a wide range of temperatures and environmental conditions to form a high strength plastic with superior moisture barrier characteristics. Hawk Epoxy is available in four system sizes color coded on each label. Note: Mix ratios vary by catalyst. For optimal product utilization, be sure to choose the same Size for both the resin and catalyst. I.e Size 1 Resin with Size 1 Catalyst.

ChooseCatalyst

C1 ULTRA SLOW CURE CATALYST: Designed for use with HAWK EPOXY R1 Resin for construction and repairs with superior adhesion, strength, bonding, filling, and moisture barrier qualities at higher temperatures and for an ultra slow cure. Do not use under Sea Hawk marine wood varnish.

C2 SLOW CURE CATALYST: Designed for use with HAWK EPOXY R1 Resin for construction and repairs with superior adhesion, strength, bonding, filling, and moisture barrier qualities at higher temperatures and for a slow cure. Do not use under Sea Hawk marine wood varnish.

C3 FAST CURE CATALYST: Designed for use with HAWK EPOXY R1 Resin for construction and repairs with superior adhesion, strength, bonding, filling, and moisture barrier qualities at cooler temperatures and for a fast cure. Do not use under Sea Hawk marine wood varnish.

C5 CLEAR FINISH CATALYST: Designed  for use with HAWK EPOXY R1 Resin for very clear fiberglass cloth and coating applications with exceptional moisture barrier characteristics. Perfect for natural wood and carbon fiber clear coats with no blush. Longer working times in very warm temperatures. May be used under Sea Hawk marine wood varnish.

TIP* For easy accurate measuring be sure to use the Hawk Epoxy Pumps that are calibrated to dispense the correct amount of resin and catalyst. This is much easier and leave little room for mistakes.

Next choose the best Hawk Epoxy Filler depending on the application:


Choose Hawk Epoxy FIller

F1 High Load Adhesive Fiber Filler – Thickens to a light grey color creating an easy to use adhesive designed for bonding hardware and other applications with dissimilar materials. This mixture will maximize bond strength for anticipated high loads.

F2 Structural Adhesive Filler – Thickens to an off white color, creating a general purpose thickening additive for bonding, gap filling and filleting. Mix to a workable consistency allowing sag-free and easy flow properties for vertical and overhead applications.

F-3 Light Density Adhesive Micro Fiber Filler – Thickens to an off white color. Great for bonding many substrates, especially wood. The mixture also creates a multipurpose adhesive for many other substrates in addition to providing excellent substrate wetting and penetrating characteristics. Increases impact and abrasion resistance.

F4 Bridging Adhesive Filler – Thickens to a brown color, creating an easy to use adhesive with excellent gap filling and filleting qualities. This mixture blends with many different types of wood to allow for a natural looking fillet or gap fill.

F5 Light Density Fairing Filler – Thickens to a reddish brown color, achieving an easy to sand and carve fairing compound while still remaining strong and light weight.

F6 MicroSphere Fairing Filler – Thickens to a white color, creating a lightweight fairing compound for small to large areas. This product holds a feathered edge very well and is suitable for nearly every substrate. This closed celled structure can also be used for increased acoustic and thermal insulation.

For the easiest was to choose your system, view our Hawk Epoxy Size 1 Kit

Aluminum Hull Repairs and More

jonboatHow to Fix a Leaking Seam or Rivet on Aluminum Boat

As aluminum boats age they show various signs of wear and tear. One of these signs may be a leaking seam or rivet. Over time, rivets can stretched and loosen, causing a gap in the hull integrity and this results in a leak. The solution to this problem is fairly simple and may be fixed at home using just a few tools and know-how. So, how should this problem be addressed?

Locate the Leaking Rivet or Seam

The first step is to find the exact seam or rivet that needs repair. To do this, put the boat in water and observe carefully. You could also put water inside the boat and see where it allows the water to escape from.

Assess the Damage

The second step is assessing the extent of damage to the rivet or seam. If the seam is too wide to be filled or caulked, it will need additional rivets in combination with a sealant product. If the damage is easily visible a sealant or caulk will be sufficient.

Choose a Sealant or Epoxy Product

There are hundreds of products out there that claim to fix leaks and seal cracks. How do you know which to choose? The Bottom Paint Store has done most of the hard work for you and can confidently recommend 3 products that really work.

Hawk Epoxy KitHawk Epoxy is an excellent product to repair aluminum hulls. We recommend getting one of the Hawk Epoxy Kits that will contain everything you need for filling in the aluminum. Hawk Epoxy is a versatile product that can be used for many other application too. Everyone should own this kit!

The second is BoatLife’s LifeCalk Sealant. This sealant may take a long time to cure (1 to 3 days), but it results in a waterproof, rubber seal that will adhere to almost anything. It can also be applied underwater for emergency repairs!

The third option is G/Flex 650 Epoxy made by West System. This liquid epoxy is more flexible and versatile than regular epoxies and will adhere to almost any surface. The bond that it creates can absorb shock, vibration, expansions and contractions. It will fully cure in 24 hours. Also, West System has created a detailed and comprehensive set of instructions for a wide variety of applications. They can be found at this link and below:

G Flex Epoxy by West SystemFix leaking seams and rivets

Patch holes in aluminum hulls

Repair pitted or pin holed surfaces

If your hull is bare aluminum you can cover the entire surface with a high build epoxy primer to help seal and protect it such as Tuff Stuff. For application details see our link for application of a marine epoxy.

Now that your leaky rivets and seams have been repaired, you are ready to paint! Check out this How To Article for more information on how to paint your aluminum vessel.

 

Clear Coat My Bass Boat

how to apply gelcoatTypically the clear coat on a bass boat is meant to protect the metalflake. You can choose a clear paint or clear gelcoat.

Clear gelcoat is typically what bass boats use at the factory for UV protection over metalflake but gelcoat isn’t as easy to use as paint. Gelcoat typically covers 48 sq feet applied at 18 mils thick per gallon.

Ironside Urethane

Ironside Urethane

The paints available in clear for spray application are the Supermarine Mono Epoxy, Two Part Epoxy, and Ironside Urethane. Paints typically cover 200-400 sq feet per gallon.

So paint vs. gelcoat, the thicker the coating the longer it takes for the sun to burn through. Time in the sun/elements is what will determine how long the clear coat lasts.

Use each product link for more information on price, application and  coverage (tabs under picture for specs/how to use).

How to Apply Gelcoat 

Topside Boat Paint Options: What are your choices?

 

 

 

Boat Blister Repair

Just because a blister or two develops on your boat it is not a serious issue and only a small number of boats develop a big problem with blisters.

Needed materials: Acetone, sanding block, Hawk Filler, acid safe disposable brushes

HawkFillerQuartCansMake sure blisters are drained and grind blister deep enough to remove damaged material beneath the gelcoat. Increase area as needed until all laminate around is sound. Clean area and allow to dry.

Hawk Filler goes on like putty to fill, patch, seal or rebuild aluminum, wood, concrete, fiberglass and steel. Hawk Filler can be drilled, tapped, or machined.

Mixing
Mix on a non-porous surface. Do not mix on cardboard, paper-based and/or porous surface. Wear tight-fitting rubber gloves. Using equal parts of Part A and Part B, mix thoroughly to even uniform color. Mix using a putty knife, trowel or spatula. Apply immediately after mixing.

Application
Apply using a putty knife, spatula or trowel. Spread smoothly on the surface in a 1/8″ – 1/4″ layer using heavy hand pressure to displace air bubbles/voids. If applying multiple coats, begin spreading away from the previously applied film so as not to trap air bubbles or leave an uncoated surface area. When using as a patch or grout, force material into hole or joint and smooth to the thickness needed.

CLEAN-UP
Wear chemical resistant gloves. Mix leftover Part A and Part B, allow curing before disposing. Scrape up spilled material with a putty knife or cover material with an absorbent material and sweep into a container for disposal. For product already mixed, use acetone.

After repairs paint with Sea Hawk bottom paint or if redoing the hull apply Tuff Stuff primer, followed by bottom paint.

If the blister has damaged the fiberglass that will need to be repaired with fiberglass cloth cut to match damaged area.

Choosing Anodes: Zinc or Aluminum

The main water types: salt, fresh and brackish call for different protection needs for your boat. Zinc and aluminum anodes protect in salt and brackish waters and never mix zinc and aluminum on the same vessel.

Zinc= Salt Water only

Aluminum= Salt or Brackish Water

Zinc and aluminum sacrificial anodes are for use on hulls, propeller shafts, rudders, trim tabs, outboard engines, stern drives and in the cooling system of most inboard engines to protect metal parts from galvanic corrosion. Check your manual for recommended size needed and  check them on a regular basis as environmental conditions can accelerate deterioration.

What Varnish to Choose?

Typically a varnish is what is used to protect wood that exposed to the elements for long periods of time (think teak wood on boats).

Here are the links to our varnish choices to check as well.

Captain Jacks Premium Varnish Captain Jack's Varnishhas been designed for the highest quality work, with outstanding results and durability. A combination of high quality pure phenolic modified tung oil provides excellent weathering performance and will enhance the richness and beauty of the wood with classic bright work appearance. BEST VALUE!

Epifanes Wood Finish Gloss Wood Finish Gloss is the ultimate varnish alternative without sanding. It is based on phenolic-modified resins and tung oil with microscopic porosity properties. Specifically formulated for oily woods like teak and iroco, Epifanes Wood Finish Gloss has an ultra high gloss finish. Its color is clear amber. One of its outstanding characteristics is its ability to build up coats quickly without sanding. No sanding is required if re-coating within 72 hours. Wood Finish gloss has excellent flow, gloss and durability and offers great flexibility and water resistance in all weather conditions. So, when its a deep high gloss finish with excellent U.V. protection and no sanding in between coats that you are looking for, Wood Finish Gloss is the perfect choice. Sold by the 1000ml (1 quart).

Awl-Spar Classic Spar Varnish (with reducer) is the highest quality classic spar varnish with state of the art ultraviolet inhibitors and absorbers used for brightwork protection against water and weather. It has excellent durability, and is fast dry, fast recoat for quick build up. For above waterline use only.

Cetol® Marine Gloss with Next Wave™ UV-absorbing technology is a durable clear gloss protective wood finish, developed as a topcoat for Cetol Marine, Cetol Marine Light and Cetol Marine Natural Teak.  Next Wave technology is the next generation of Cetol Marine from Sikkens with a unique UV-absorbing package, which is specialty resins and advanced UV absorbers that provide greater protection, durability and longevity.  Cetol Marine Gloss provides a high gloss, hard wearing, UV protection and an easy to clean finish.  It can be used where a gloss appearance is preferred on top of Cetol Marine, Cetol Marine Light and Cetol Marine Natural Teak.  Do not use on decks.

Marine Spar Varnish is a super clear, high gloss varnish for exterior and interior use on new or previously varnished surfaces subject to abuse from parching sun, fresh or salt water, severe weather conditions or abrasion. Formulated with an ultra violet screening agent, Marine Spar Varnish will hold its gloss on exterior surfaces far better than conventional varnishes. Excellent for use on boats doors, furniture, porches, bar tops, or any other surface where a durable clear gloss finish is desired.

Restoring Awlgrip and Awlcraft 2000 Paint

Over time contaminants can build up and cause the finish of your Awlgrip/Awlcraft 2000 paint to appear dull.  You can restore the gloss of a freshly painted boat and prevent the premature aging caused by contaminates by following these steps:

  • Wash your Awlgrip or Awlcraft surface with Awlwash mixed with water (1-2 capfuls in a bucket of water for washing) using soft, non-abrasive cloths and rinse well. Doing so on a regular basis (once per month) will help control dulling buildup.
  • Solvent cleaning of Awlgrip only: Awlprep and Awlprep Plus can be used to aid in removal of stains or markers.
  • Solvent cleaning of Awlcraft 2000 only: Awlprep or mild solvents should be used.

Awlgrip AWLwashIn both cases apply solvents with soft cloths and do not allow the chemicals to dry on surface or soak. Wash with Awlwash to prevent remaining solvent to attack paint. As always when working with solvents, test in an inconspicuous area first.

 Distilled white vinegar and hot water will aid in removing salt stains, always follow with Awlwash.

Protecting the Surface

awlgrip awlcareAwlcare can be applied to the surface like a wax to remove pollutants (such as diesel soot), protects the finish and leaves a glossy shine. Awlcare should be applied regularly to protect against pollutants. It can be removed with Awl-Prep Plus (Awlgrip only) when it’s time to repaint. What to avoid with Awlgrip and Awlcraft 2000:

  • Abrasives
  • Polishing compounds
  • Traditional waxes as they tend to break down rapidly, yellow and attract dirt
  • Acid based products such as teak or metal cleaners and strong solvents on Awlcraft 2000, Awlbrite Clear or Awlspar Varnish.
  • Trapped moisture from supplies as paint can blister or delaminate

 

Choosing a Bilge Pump

What are Bilge Pumps?

Bilge pumps are devices used in boats to remove unwanted water from the bilge compartment of a boat. (The bilge is the lowest compartment of the inside hull of a ship.) Whether you have a sailboat or powerboat, they are as important as lifejackets in an emergency. If there happened to be a collision that caused a leak, having a bilge pump actively removing water from the boat’s compartments could buy you precious time. However, as many experience boaters know, you cannot rely on a pump to keep your boat afloat indefinitely.

Main Types of Bilge Pumps

Non Automatic:

Non Automatic pumps are controlled by means of a float switch and/or a manual panel switch. The panel switch allows you to control the pump remotely. Using the float switch is beneficial because the pump only runs when the water reaches a certain level. After the water is pumped out and the level goes back down, the pump can shut off. The most common type of non-automatic pump is the Electrical Submersible Bilge Pump. They are easy to install, very effective, and have low amp draw. Also, the motor cartridge can be easily removed to clean out debris and other obstructions.

Automatic:

Automatic Bilge Pumps function without the use of a float switch. It uses the principle of impeller resistance to sense if any water is present. Depending on the brand, the pump will automatically turn on every 2.5 minutes to check for water. If water is present, the pump will know about it from the slight pressure on the impeller as it spins. It will continue to run until all the water has been pumped out. The voltage needed for both automatic and non-automatic pumps will vary from 12V – 32V, depending on the size and capacity of each pump.

Manual:

If the boat’s electrical system goes out, a manual bilge pump would be invaluable. They are able to move lots of water effectively, but can be tiring to use. Water is heavy, and that weight is compounded when moving it some distance. When installing these sorts of pumps, take into consideration the ease of access, and imagine how it will be used. Putting a manual pump in a tight, cramped space may hinder your use of it when it is needed.

Which Pump is best for your boat?

The first thing to consider is the size of your boat. Smaller boats will need a good size pump because the bilge compartment is smaller and will fill up with water quicker than larger boats. Some boats have separate bilge compartments. If that is the case, it would be a good idea to have a pump for each section.

Most electric pumps are rated for the number of gallons that they can pump in an hour. (G.P.H.) It is recommended to select a pump the largest model that is still practical for your boat.  Also consider the size of your existing output hose and the capacity of your boat’s wiring and battery. Don’t hesitate to ask an expert when making these decisions. You can talk to a pump manufacturer and get their informed opinion.

Suggested Pump Capacity:

Boat Size

Number of Pumps

Pump Output in GPH

16’ – 20’

2

2500

21’ – 26’

2

3000 – 3500

27’ – 35’

3

3500 – 4500

36’ – 42’

3

6000

43’ – 49’

3

8000

50’ – 59’

4

9000 – 10,000

Where to place Your Bilge Pump(s)?

It is always a good idea to have more than one bilge pump onboard. Many boaters have a backup pump installed in the same bilge compartment. The first pump may be smaller and positioned where the majority of water will pool inside. The secondary pump may be a bit higher inside the hull. This pump should be bigger than the first, because if the boat has collected that much water the main goal is to get it out as fast as possible.

When deciding where to place your pumps, observe where the water accumulates in the hull when the boat is at rest as well as in motion. For powerboats the water tends to flow toward the aft when the boat is moving. Sailboats tend to accumulate bilge water in the middle.

Bilge Pump Installation Reminders:

  • Follow the manufacturer’s specifications – especially on wires sizes
  • Use a vented loop – if the thru-hull discharge can be submerged, a siphoning effect can fill your hull instead of empty it.
  • Keep discharge hoses short – long hoses make the pump work harder than it has to.
  • Use waterproof connectors – any connections in the bilge area should be protected.
  • Use smooth bore hoses – corrugated hoses are cheaper but not effective for pumps.

Bilge Pumps Available from the Bottom Paint Store

Can you use a Marine Descaler on an aluminum outboard engine?

We recommend a Hammerhead Marine Descaler Flush every 100 hours, or twice a year for any engine running in warm, calcium rich waters.  This is a revolutionary change to outboard marine engine maintenance which has come about through Bright Bay’s next generation chemistry.  Only Hammerhead Marine Descaler  is made with aluminum safe cleaning agents designed for today’s high performance marine engines. Now you can even descale your aluminum outboard engine safely!

The attached pictures were taken of a 4 stroke outboard engine in Key West.  The block cracked with less than 200 hours because marine scale had restricted water flow for engine cooling.  Because water flow and scale buildup are a maintenance item, damage was not covered under the manufacturer’s warranty on the $20,000 motor. A marine descaler would have prevented this damage.

When compared to other brands such as Rydlyme Descaler and Barnacle Buster, we found Hammerhead Marine Descaler to be as effective, less expensive  and safe for use on aluminum outboards.

Owners have historically only used “salt away” to flush outboard engines because acid descalers are not safe for the aluminum heads.  Salt away does not remove marine biogrowth which ultimately causes engines to overheat.  The traditional repair method for an overheating engine is to tear down and rebuild.  We are going to recommend that an outboard Hammerhead Flush be done with each oil change as a preventative maintenance procedure for avoiding marine scale buildup, overheating, and engine rebuilds.

Watch this video of Hammer Hear Marine Descaler in action!

How to Apply Bottom Paint Over Existing Bottom Paint

Bottom Painting is not very technical, but you must have a clean surface to insure good adhesion.

Refer to the Sea Hawk Compatibility Chart to determine if your existing coating is compatible with Sea Hawk antifoulant paint choice.To insure that your bottom paint adheres to your existing coating, it is important to have a clean prepared surface and an existing coating that is in good condition.

Known Compatibility of Existing Bottom Paint:
Power wash (pressure wash) to remove any loose paint,dirt, grease, or any other surface contaminants.
Scuff sand with 80 grit sandpaper, or scuff with a 3M Scotch-Brite® 7447 pad scrubbing thoroughly. Remove all residue and let dry.
Apply minimum of two coats of antifoulant. Allow 3 to 6 hours between coats and a minimum overnight dry. See the specific Technical Data Sheet for antifoulant being used. Some antifoulants may require more than 2 coats.

Unknown Compatibility* of Existing Antifoulant:
Power wash (pressure wash) to remove any loose paint,dirt, grease, or any other surface contaminants.
Scuff sand with 80 grit sandpaper, or scuff with a 3M Scotch-Brite® 7447 pad scrubbing thoroughly. Remove all residue and let dry.
Apply 1 coat of Bottom Paint PrimersHAWKocon or 1283 Island Primer (see respective technical data sheet)
Apply minimum of two coats of antifoulant. Allow 3 to 6 hours between coats and a minimum overnight dry.See the specific Technical Data Sheet for antifoulant being used. Some antifoulants may require more than 2 coats.

Poor Condition of Existing Antifoulant:
If previous coating is cracking, flaking or peeling then strip antifoulant with Marine Paint Stripper, or by sanding or commercial blast. Refer to Bare Fiberglass Application Guidelines for new antifoulant application.

How to Clean, Restore, and Seal Teak Wood on Your Boat

Restoring your weathered teak wood is an easy 3 step process with Tip Top Teak’s premium system. Learn how to clean, brighten, and seal your teak or other wood


Step 1. Cleaning Teak Wood with
Crystal Deck Cleaner
crystal deck cleanerGetting the teak clean is the first step in the process. You need a really effective cleaner that will not harm the wood. You should not use any bleach. All weathered teak should be first be cleaned with Crystal Deck Cleaner.

1. Wet decks and all surrounding painted and fiberglass areas thoroughly with fresh water.

2. Sprinkle teak cleaner evenly and liberally over wet surface to be cleaned. Do not try to clean more than 6-8 square feet at one time. Mix 1 cup of Crystal Deck Teak Cleaner in a 1/2 gallon of water. If any areas appears to be drying during spreading, dip your deck brush into the water/teak cleaner mixture to that area assuring wet coverage on all surfaces. DO NOT ALLOW AREA TO DRY.

3. Let teak cleaner set for 10-15 minutes keeping the surface wet throughout.

4. Scrub entire surface completely. After scrubbing, rinse thoroughly with hose and deck brush to be sure all cleaning material and resultant dirt are completely rinsed from surface. Follow cleaning with Deck Brighten (if desired), and then Teak Wood-Oil Sealer.


Step 2. Using
Deck Brightener on Your Teak Deck

deckbrightnerTeak Deck Brightener is the answer to dull, gray teak. Specifically designed to restore light beautiful look of new teals.
– Brightens Teak Dulled by Weather and Wear
– Won’t Raise the Grain
– Containes No Bleach
– Cleans Away Discoloration in the Deck

1. Dilute contents of this container with equal parts of wate in a plastic bucket.

2. Wet decks and all surrounding painted and fiberglass areas thoroughly with fresh water. Do not try to brighten more than 6-8 square feet at one time. Allow to soak for 5 mintues, reapply to any dark areas. DO NOT ALLOW TO DRY.

3. Rinse teak thoroughly, scrub and rinse at the same time.

4. Allow surface to dry overnight before applying Tip Top Teak’s Wood-Oil Sealer. Follow brightening process with Wood-Oil Sealer.


Step 3. Application of
Teak Oil Sealer

woodoilsealerTeak Oil Sealer is designed to seal and protect teak. Restores and protects teak and other woods. Easy to use and extra long lasting formula.
– Easy to Use
– Extra Long Lasting
– Restores and Protects Teaks and Other Woods
– Adds Luster and Beauty to Your Deck

Never apply product when ambient temperature is below 50 F, 10C. Use a paint brush or clean terry cloth towel to apply Tip Top Teak’s Wood-Oil Sealer. Apply in the direction of the grain, lapping to ensure complete coverage. Apply at least two coats for essential protection. Allow to dry overnight bewteen coats. Excess Teak Oil Sealer should be removed with a clean cloth. Follow teak sealing process by repeating the 3 Step Tip Top Teak Process at least 4 times annually for optimum protection.

Maintaining and Restoring Your Gelcoat

Gelcoat Restoration Guide
Keep your gelcoat in good condition by using these 4 steps:

As you haul your boat out of storage you may want to get the gelcoat shining once again. Use the steps below as needed:

New Boats:

M09009A one step clean-and-wax products combine washing and waxing in one step, best used on new boats where the finish is in good condition with little or no oxidation, try 3M Marine Cleaner and Wax.

Light gel coat oxidation? Best to use the least aggressive method if possible to prolong the life of gelcoat  Clean with 3M Marine Boat Soap and buff with the 3M Imperial Compound. Avoid direct sunlight and room temperature is best. Use a tape, like 3M 471 available in different lengths.

Older Boats:

Step 1: Boats that need more aggressive cleaning just wash surface and remove loose contaminants: Use a non-abrasive light detergent to remove all surface dirt and all previously applied coatings,  3M Marine Boat Soap or Marine Clean are ideal.

Sometimes you need something stronger to remove surface rust, oil, tar, algae discoloration, black streaks caused from water runoff, exhaust and waterline scum or other stains before waxing or you’ll seal in the stain. Usually you will need an acid-based stain remover like Hammerhead Hull Cleaner or  Hull Cleaner, Extra Strong by Tip Top Teak (test in an inconspicuous area first) using gloves.

Step 2: If your boat is a bit more oxidized a rubbing compound (liquid abrasive which “sands” your hull) is needed but do so carefully as you can rub through the gelcoat. The more faded your hull the more compounding you’ll need. The 3M Imperial Compound, usually applied with a polisher if possible and compatible 3M pads, like the white 100% wool pad, is recommended by 3M. Keep product off bottom paint, if applicable, by taping off as it can spatter. If the compound isn’t strong enough for your level of oxidation and scratches then you may need to “pretreat” with a 1200 (or 800) grit as needed prior to the compound. 

M05928-2Step 3: 3M Finesse-It II, more aggressive, or the 3M Perfect-It Machine Polish, brightest finish, will help provide a nice finish to the gelcoat after compounding and bring it to a gloss. Apply with the yellow pad by 3M.

3M Clean and Shine can help remove any wax residue.

 

Step 4: The last step is a wax coat such as Scotchguard Marine Liquid Wax or 3M Ultra Performance wax.  These help seal  and protect all the work you’ve just completed.

m09033Maintaining Gloss: Revitalize your gelcoat gloss without going through all the work again by using  3M Marine Clean and Shine when you wash your boat and before it completely dries.