{"id":1114,"date":"2015-09-16T14:26:19","date_gmt":"2015-09-16T18:26:19","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.bottompaintstore.com\/blog\/?p=1114"},"modified":"2016-01-22T13:17:13","modified_gmt":"2016-01-22T18:17:13","slug":"paint-problem-solver","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.bottompaintstore.com\/blog\/topside-paint-how-to\/paint-problem-solver\/","title":{"rendered":"Paint Problem Solver"},"content":{"rendered":"

 <\/p>\n

PAINT BLISTERING:<\/em><\/strong><\/span>
\n\"blistering\"Bubbles may be seen resulting from localized loss of adhesion, and lifting of the paint film from the\u00a0underlying surface.
\nPOSSIBLE CAUSES:<\/strong> Applying solvent-based paint over a damp or wet surface. Moisture seeping into\u00a0the substrate from the outside (less<\/span> likely with water-based paint). Exposure to high to high humidity or\u00a0moisture during application or shortly after paint has dried, especially if there was inadequate surface\u00a0preparation. Entrapment of air in the pores of the substrate being painted. Entrapment of solvents which\u00a0is commonly caused when paint is over coated before the solvents have sufficiently released.
\nSOLUTION:<\/strong> If blisters do not go all the way down to the substrate: Remove blisters by scraping, and\u00a0sanding, and repaint. Be sure to apply when humidity is below 75% and with good ventilation. If blisters\u00a0go down to the substrate: Remove the source of moisture. Repair loose coatings; install vents or\u00a0exhaust fans where possible. Remove blisters as above, remembering to prime before applying the top\u00a0coat. Seal porous substrates \u00a0before priming or painting. This will prevent air from\u00a0being trapped under the paint causing blisters or moisture intrusion.
\nNOTE: Always test for moisture and humidity to confirm the substrate is ready to prime or paint. Never\u00a0overcoat paint that is still releasing solvents.<\/p>\n

BLOCKING:<\/strong><\/em><\/span>
\n\"blocking\"Undesirable sticking together of two painted surfaces when pressed together (e.g., a door sticking to the\u00a0jamb).
\nPOSSIBLE CAUSES:<\/strong> Not allowing sufficient dry time for the coating before closing doors or windows.\u00a0Use of low quality satin or gloss paints.
\nSOLUTION:<\/strong> Use top quality satin or gloss acrylic water-based paint. Low quality water-based paints can\u00a0have poor block resistance, especially in warm, damp conditions. Follow paint label instructions\u00a0regarding dry times. Acrylic water-based paints generally have better early block resistance than vinyl\u00a0acetate co-polymer based paints or solvent-based paints; however, solvent-based paints develop\u00a0superior block resistance over time. Application of talcum powder can relieve persistent blocking.<\/p>\n

BURNISHING:<\/strong><\/em><\/span>
\n\"burnish\"Increase in gloss or sheen of paint film when subjected to rubbing, scrubbing or having an object brush\u00a0up against it.
\nPOSSIBLE CAUSES:<\/strong> Use of matte paint in high traffic areas, where a higher sheen level would be\u00a0desirable. Frequent washing and spot cleaning. Objects (furniture, for example) rubbing against the\u00a0walls. Use of lower grades of paint with poor stain and scrub resistance (see Poor Stain Resistance and\u00a0Poor Scrub Resistance).
\nSOLUTION:<\/strong> Paint heavy wear areas that require regular cleaning (e.g., doors, window sills and trim)\u00a0with a top quality water-based paint, because this type of paint offers both durability and easier cleaning\u00a0capability. In high traffic areas, choose a satin or gloss rather than a matt sheen level. Clean painted\u00a0surfaces with a soft cloth or sponge and non-abrasive cleansers; rinse with clean water.<\/p>\n

CHALKING:<\/em><\/strong><\/span>
\n\"chalking\"Formation of fine powder on the surface of the paint film during weathering which can cause color\u00a0fading. Although some degree of chalking is a normal, desirable way for a paint film to wear, excessive\u00a0film erosion can result from heavy chalking.
\nPOSSIBLE CAUSES:<\/strong> Use of a low-grade, highly pigmented paint. Use of an interior paint for an outdoor\u00a0application.
\nSOLUTION:<\/strong> First, remove as much of the chalk residue as possible, scrubbing with a stiff bristle brush (or\u00a0wire brush on masonry) and then rinse thoroughly; or use power washing equipment. Check for any\u00a0remaining chalk by running a hand over the surface after it dries. If noticeable chalk is still present, apply\u00a0a quality oil-based or acrylic latex primer (or comparable sealer for masonry), then repaint with a quality\u00a0exterior coating; if little or no chalk remains and the old paint is sound, no priming is necessary.<\/p>\n

CRACKING \/ FLAKING:<\/em><\/strong><\/span>
\n\"cracking_flaking\"The splitting of a dry paint film through at least one coat as a result of aging, which ultimately will lead to\u00a0complete failure of the paint. In its early stages, the problem appears as hairline cracks; in its later\u00a0stages, flaking occurs.
\nPOSSIBLE CAUSES:<\/strong> Use of lower quality paint that has inadequate adhesion and flexibility. Over\u00a0thinning or overspreading the paint. Inadequate surface preparation, or applying the paint to bare wood\u00a0without first applying a primer. Excessive hardening of solvent-based paint as the paint job ages.
\nSOLUTION:<\/strong> Remove loose and flaking paint with a scraper or wire brush, sanding the surface and\u00a0feathering the edges. If the flaking occurs in multiple layers of paint, use of a face filler may be\u00a0necessary. Prime bare wood areas before repainting. Use of a top quality primer and top coat should\u00a0prevent a recurrence of the problem.<\/p>\n

DIRT PICK UP:<\/strong><\/em><\/span>
\n\"dirtpickup\"Accumulation of dirt, dust particles and\/or other debris on the paint film; may resemble mildew.
\nPOSSIBLE CAUSES:<\/strong> Use of a low quality paint, especially lower grades of satin or semi-gloss. Soil\u00a0splashing onto siding. Air pollution, car exhaust and flying dust collecting on house body and horizontal\u00a0trim.
\nSOLUTION:<\/strong> Wash off all surface dirt before priming and painting, using a scrub brush and detergent\u00a0solution, followed by a thorough rinsing with a garden hose. Heavier dirt accumulations may require the\u00a0use of a power washer. While dirt pickup can’t be eliminated entirely, top quality exterior latex paints\u00a0typically offer superior dirt pickup resistance and wash-ability. Also, higher gloss paints are more resistant\u00a0to dirt pickup than flat paints, which are more porous and can more easily entrap dirt.<\/p>\n

FOAMING \/ CRATERING:<\/em><\/strong><\/span>
\n\"foaming\"Formation of bubbles (foaming) and resulting small, round concave depressions (cratering) when\u00a0bubbles break in a paint film, during paint application and drying.
\nPOSSIBLE CAUSES:<\/strong> Shaking a partially filled can of paint. Use of low quality paint or very old water based\u00a0paints. Applying (especially rolling) paint too rapidly. Use of a roller cover with wrong nap length.\u00a0Excessive rolling or brushing of the paint. Applying a gloss or satin paint over a porous surface.
\nSOLUTION:<\/strong> All paints will foam to some degree during application; however, higher quality paints are\u00a0formulated so the bubbles break while the paint is still wet, allowing for good flow and appearance.\u00a0Avoid excessive rolling or brushing of the paint or using paint that is more than a year old. Apply gloss\u00a0and satin paints with a short nap roller, and apply an appropriate sealer or primer before using such\u00a0paint over a porous surface. Problem areas should be sanded before repainting.<\/p>\n

FROSTING:<\/strong><\/em><\/span>
\n\"frosting\"A white, salt-like substance on the paint surface. Frosting can occur on any paint color, but it is less\u00a0noticeable on white paint or lighter tints. On masonry, it can be mistaken for efflorescence (see\u00a0Efflorescence and Mottling).
\nPOSSIBLE CAUSES:<\/strong> Forms mostly in protected areas (such as under eaves and on porch ceilings) that\u00a0do not receive the cleansing action of rain, dew and other moisture. Use of dark-colored paints that have\u00a0been formulated with calcium carbonate extender.
\nApplication of a dark-colored paint over a paint or primer containing calcium carbonate extender.
\nSOLUTION:<\/strong> Frosting can be a stubborn problem. It often cannot be washed off readily. Moreover, the\u00a0condition can recur even as a bleed-through when a new top coat is applied. In extreme cases, it can\u00a0interfere with adhesion. The best remedy is to remove the frosting by wire brushing masonry or sanding\u00a0wood surfaces; rinse, then apply an alkyd-based primer before adding a coat of high quality exterior paint.<\/p>\n

INCOMPATIBILITY:<\/em><\/strong><\/span>
\n\"incompatibility\"Loss of adhesion where many old coats of alkyd or oil-based paint receive a latex top coat.
\nPOSSIBLE CAUSES:<\/strong> Use of water-based latex paint over more than three or four coats of old alkyd or\u00a0oil-based paint may cause the old paint to “lift off” the substrate.
\nSOLUTION:<\/strong> Repaint using another coat of alkyd or oil-based paint. Or completely remove the existing\u00a0paint and prepare the surface – cleaning, sanding and spot-priming where necessary – before repainting\u00a0with a top quality latex exterior paint.<\/p>\n

LAPPING:<\/em><\/strong><\/span>
\n\"InteriorLapping_thumb\"Appearance of a denser color or increased gloss where wet and dry layers overlap during paint\u00a0application.
\nPOSSIBLE CAUSES:<\/strong> Failure to maintain a “wet edge” when painting. Use of a low solids “economy”\u00a0paint.
\nSOLUTION:<\/strong> Maintain a wet edge when painting by applying paint toward the unpainted area and then\u00a0back into the just painted surface. This technique (brushing or rolling from “wet to dry” rather than vice\u00a0versa) will produce a smooth uniform appearance. It is also wise to work in manageable size areas; plan\u00a0for interruptions at a natural break, such as a window, door or corner. Using a top quality acrylic water based\u00a0paint makes it easier to avoid lapping problems because higher solids (pigments and binder)\u00a0content makes lapped areas less noticeable. If substrate is very porous, it may need a primer\/sealer to
\nprevent paint form drying too quickly and reducing wet edge time. Solvent-based paints generally have\u00a0superior wet edge properties.<\/p>\n

FUNGAL CONTAMINATION:<\/strong><\/em><\/span>
\nBlack, grey or brown spots or areas on the surface of paint or sealant.
\nPOSSIBLE CAUSES:<\/strong> Forms most often on areas that tend to be damp, or receive little or no direct\u00a0sunlight (e.g., bathrooms, kitchens and utility rooms). Use of a solvent-based paint, or lower quality\u00a0water-based paint. Failure to prime bare wood surface before applying the paint. Painting over a\u00a0substrate or coating on which fungal contamination has not been removed.
\nSOLUTION:<\/strong> Test for fungus by applying a few drops of household bleach to the area; if it is bleached\u00a0away, the dis-colorant is probably fungus. Remove all fungus from the surface by scrubbing with a\u00a0diluted household bleach solution (one part bleach, three parts water) or a fungicidal wash, while\u00a0wearing rubber gloves and eye protection. Rinse thoroughly. To protect against fungal contamination,\u00a0use a top quality water-based paint, and clean when necessary with bleach\/detergent solution. Consider\u00a0installing an exhaust fan (which is connected to a light switch) in high moisture areas. Some products,\u00a0with fungicidal claims are available, which you may consider.<\/p>\n

MOLD\/MILDEW:<\/em><\/strong><\/span>
\n\"mildewin\"Black, gray or brown spots or areas on the surface of paint or caulk.
\nPOSSIBLE CAUSES:<\/strong> Forms most often on areas that tend to be damp, or receive little or no direct\u00a0sunlight (e.g., bathrooms, kitchens and laundry rooms).\u00a0Use of an alkyd or oil-based paint, or lower quality latex paint.\u00a0Failure to prime bare wood surface before applying the paint.\u00a0Painting over a substrate or coating on which mildew has not been removed.
\nSOLUTION:<\/strong> Test for mildew by applying a few drops of household bleach to the area; if it is bleached\u00a0away, the dis-colorant is probably mildew. Remove all mildew from the surface by scrubbing with a\u00a0diluted household bleach solution (one part bleach, three parts water), while wearing rubber gloves and\u00a0eye protection. Rinse thoroughly. To protect against mildew, use a top quality latex paint, and clean\u00a0when necessary with bleach\/detergent solution. Consider installing an exhaust fan in high moisture\u00a0areas.<\/p>\n

MUD CRACKING:<\/em><\/strong><\/span>
\n\"mud_crack\"Deep, irregular cracks resembling dried mud in dry paint film.
\nPOSSIBLE CAUSES:<\/strong> Paint applied too thickly, usually over a porous surface. Paint applied too thickly,\u00a0to improve inherent poor hiding (coverage) of a lower quality paint. Paint is allowed to build up in\u00a0corners upon application.
\nSOLUTION:<\/strong> Remove coating by scraping and sanding. Prime and repaint, using a top quality water-based\u00a0paint. Mud-cracked areas can also be repaired by sanding the surface smooth before repainting\u00a0with a top quality water-based paint. This type of paint is likely to prevent recurrence of mud cracking,\u00a0because it is relatively more flexible than solvent-based paint, and ordinary water-based paint. Quality\u00a0paints have a higher solids content, which reduces the tendency to mud crack. They also have very\u00a0good application and hiding properties, which minimize the tendency to apply too thick a coat of paint.<\/p>\n

PEELING:<\/strong><\/em><\/span>
\n\"peeling\"Loss of paint due to poor adhesion. Where there is a primer and top coat, or multiple coats of paint,\u00a0peeling may involve some or all coats.
\nPOSSIBLE CAUSES:<\/strong> Seepage of moisture through un-caulked joints, worn caulk or leaks in roof or walls.\u00a0Moisture in the form of water, rain, dew or high humidity allowed on surface before it has fully cured.\u00a0Excess moisture escaping through exterior walls (more likely if paint is oil-based). Inadequate surface\u00a0preparation. Applying paint over a wet or contaminated surface. Improper application techniques. Earlier\u00a0blistering of paint (see Blistering).
\nSOLUTION:<\/strong> Always make moisture assessment and planning part of paint preparation and application.\u00a0Carefully schedule interior and exterior paint work during an acceptable weather window. Identify and\u00a0eliminate moisture sources in advance. Prepare surface by removing all loose paint, contaminates and\u00a0moisture. Strictly adhere to manufacturers application guidelines. Use paint and primer according to\u00a0application instructions and standard industry practices. Thoroughly remove corrupted peeling paint,\u00a0repaint with a top quality paint products.<\/p>\n

PICTURE FRAMING:<\/strong><\/em><\/span>
\n\"picture_framing\"An effect of non uniform color that can appear when a wall is painted with a roller, but is brushed at the\u00a0corners, architraves and cornices. The brushed areas generally appear darker, resembling the “frame”\u00a0of a “picture”. Also, sprayed areas may be darker than neighboring sections that are brushed or rolled.\u00a0Picture framing can also refer to sheen effects.
\nPOSSIBLE CAUSES:<\/strong> Usually a hiding (coverage) effect. Brushing will generally result in lower spread\u00a0rates than rolling, producing a thicker film and more hiding. Adding colorant to a non-tintable paint or\u00a0using the wrong type or level of colorant, resulting in variation in color, depending on method of\u00a0application.
\nSOLUTION:<\/strong> Make sure that spread rates with brushes and rollers are similar. Don’t cut in the entire\u00a0room before roller coating. Work in smaller sections of the room to maintain a “wet edge.” With tinted\u00a0paints, be sure the correct colorant-base combinations are used.<\/p>\n

POOR FLOW \/\u00a0LEVELING:<\/strong><\/em><\/span>
\n\"poorFailure of paint to dry to a smooth film, resulting in unsightly brush and roller marks after the paint dries.
\nPOSSIBLE CAUSES:<\/strong> Use of lower quality paint. Application of additional paint to “touch up” partially\u00a0dried painted areas. Re-brushing or re-rolling partially dried painted areas. Use of the wrong type of\u00a0roller cover or poor quality brush.
\nSOLUTION:<\/strong> Use top quality water-based paints, which are generally formulated with ingredients that\u00a0enhance paint flow. Brush and roller marks thus tend to “flow out” and form a smooth film. When using a\u00a0roller, be sure to use a cover with the recommended nap length for the type of paint being used. Use of\u00a0a high quality brush is important; a poor brush can result in bad flow and leveling with any paint.<\/p>\n

POOR HIDE:<\/em><\/strong><\/span>
\n\"poor_hiding\"Failure of dried paint to obscure or “hide” the surface to which it is applied.
\nPOSSIBLE CAUSES:<\/strong> Use of low quality paint. Use of low quality tools\/wrong roller cover. Use of an\u00a0improper combination of tinting base and tinting color. Poor flow and leveling (see Poor Flow\/Leveling).\u00a0Use of a paint that is much lighter in color than the substrate, or that primarily contains low-hiding\u00a0organic pigments such as yellows, reds and blues. Application of paint at a higher spread rate than\u00a0recommended. \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0\u00a0SOLUTION:<\/strong> If the substrate is significantly darker or is a patterned wallpaper, it should be primed\u00a0before applying a top coat. Use a top quality paint for better hiding and flow. Use quality tools; use the\u00a0recommended roller nap, if rolling. Follow manufacturer’s recommendation on spread rate; if using tinted\u00a0paint, use the correct tinting base. Where a low-hiding organic color must be used, apply a primer first.<\/p>\n

POOR IMPRINT RESISTANCE:<\/em><\/strong><\/span>
\n\"poor_print\"The tendency of paint film to take on the imprint of an object that is placed on it (e.g., a shelf, table,\u00a0window sill or counter-top with books, dishes and other objects on them).
\nPOSSIBLE CAUSES:<\/strong> Use of low quality satin or gloss paint. Putting a painted surface back into use\u00a0before paint has fully dried.
\nSOLUTION:<\/strong> Use top quality acrylic satin or gloss water-based paint. Low quality water-based satin and\u00a0gloss paints can have poor print resistance, especially in warm, damp conditions. Acrylic water-based\u00a0paints generally have better print resistance than vinyl acetate co polymer type paints. Fully cured\u00a0solvent-based paints also have excellent print resistance. Make sure the recommended “cure” time is\u00a0allowed for the paint before it is put into service. Cool or humid conditions require more curing time.<\/p>\n

POOR SCRUB RESISTANCE:<\/em><\/strong><\/span>
\n\"poor_scrub\"Wearing away or removal of the paint film when scrubbed with a brush, sponge, or cloth.
\nPOSSIBLE CAUSES:<\/strong> Choosing the wrong sheen for the area. Use of a lower quality paint. Use of an\u00a0overly aggressive scrub medium (see Burnishing). Inadequate dry time allowed after application of the\u00a0paint before washing it.
\nSOLUTION:<\/strong> Areas that need frequent cleaning require a high quality paint formulated to provide such\u00a0performance. High traffic areas may require a satin or gloss paint rather than a matte paint to provide\u00a0good scrub resistance. Allow adequate dry time, as scrub resistance will not fully develop until the paint\u00a0is thoroughly cured. Typically, this will be one week. Try washing the painted surface with the least\u00a0abrasive material and mildest detergent first.<\/p>\n

POOR SHEEN UNIFORMITY:<\/em><\/strong><\/span>
\n\"poor_sheen\"Shiny spots or dull spots on a painted surface; uneven gloss.
\nPOSSIBLE CAUSES:<\/strong> Uneven spread rate. Failure to properly prime a porous surface, or surface with\u00a0varying degrees of porosity. Poor application resulting in lapping (see Lapping).
\nSOLUTION:<\/strong> New substrates should be primed\/sealed before applying the top coat to ensure a uniformly\u00a0porous surface. Without the use of a primer or sealer, a second coat of paint will more likely be needed.\u00a0Make sure to apply paint from “wet to dry” to prevent lapping. Often, applying an additional coat will\u00a0even out sheen irregularities.<\/p>\n

POOR STAIN RESISTANCE:<\/strong><\/em><\/span>
\n\"poor_stain\"Failure of the paint to resist absorption of dirt and stains.
\nPOSSIBLE CAUSES:<\/strong> Use of lower quality paint that is porous in nature. Application of paint to\u00a0unprimed substrate.
\nSOLUTION:<\/strong> Higher quality water-based paints contain more binder, which helps prevent stains from\u00a0penetrating the painted surface, allowing for easy removal. Priming new surfaces provides maximum\u00a0film thickness of a premium top coat, providing very good stain removability.<\/p>\n

“STIPPLE” \/ ROLLER MARKS:<\/strong><\/em><\/span>
\n\"roller_marks\"Unintentional textured pattern left in the paint by the roller.
\nPOSSIBLE CAUSES:<\/strong> Use of incorrect roller cover. Use of lower grades of paint. Use of low quality\u00a0roller. Use of incorrect rolling technique.
\nSOLUTION:<\/strong>\u00a0Use the proper roller cover; avoid too long a nap for the paint and the substrate. Use quality roller to\u00a0ensure adequate film thickness and uniformity. High quality paints tend to roll on more evenly due to\u00a0their higher solids content and leveling properties. Pre-dampen roller covers used with water-based\u00a0paint; shake out excess water. Don’t let paint build up at roller ends. Begin rolling at a corner near the\u00a0ceiling and work down the wall in sections. Spread the paint in a zigzag “M” or “W” pattern, beginning\u00a0with an upward stroke to minimize spatter; then, without lifting the roller from the surface, fill in the\u00a0zigzag pattern with even, parallel strokes. On doors, if rolled, lay off with a brush.<\/p>\n

SPLATTER:<\/strong><\/em><\/span>
\n\"Interior_Roller_Spattering_thumb\"Tendency of a roller to throw off small droplets of paint during application.
\nPOSSIBLE CAUSES:<\/strong> Use of exterior paint on an interior surface. Use of lower grades of water-based\u00a0paints.
\nSOLUTION:<\/strong> Higher quality paints are formulated to minimize splattering. Using high quality rollers which\u00a0have proper resiliency further reduce splattering. In some cases, a quality wall paint may be preferred\u00a0for ceiling work, for maximum splatter resistance. Overloading the roller with paint will result in excess\u00a0splatter, as will overworking the paint once it is applied to a substrate. Working in sections, applying the\u00a0paint in a zigzag “M” or “W” pattern and then filling in the pattern will also lessen the likelihood of\u00a0splattering.<\/p>\n

SAGGING \/\u00a0RUNNING:<\/strong><\/em><\/span>
\n\"sagging\"Downward “drooping” movement of the paint film immediately after application, resulting in an uneven\u00a0coating.
\nPOSSIBLE CAUSES:<\/strong> Application of a heavy coat of paint. Application in excessively humid and\/or cool\u00a0conditions. Application of over thinned paint. Airless spraying with the gun too close to the substrate\u00a0being painted.
\nSOLUTION:<\/strong> If the paint is still wet, immediately brush out or re-roll to redistribute the excess evenly. If\u00a0the paint has dried, sand, and reapply a new coat of top quality paint. Correct any unfavorable\u00a0conditions: Do not thin the paint; avoid cool or humid conditions; sand glossy surfaces. Paint should be\u00a0applied at its recommended spread rate; avoid “heaping on” the paint. Two coats of paint at the\u00a0recommended spread rate are better than one heavy coat, which can also lead to sagging. Consider\u00a0removing doors to paint them supported horizontally.<\/p>\n

SEALANT FAILURES:<\/strong><\/em><\/span>
\n\"caulk_fail\"Loss of sealant’s initial adhesion and flexibility, causing it to crack and\/or pull away from the surfaces to\u00a0which it has been applied.
\nPOSSIBLE CAUSES:<\/strong> Use of lower quality sealant. Use of wrong type of sealant for a particular\u00a0application. Substrate not dry.
\nSOLUTION:<\/strong> Use a top quality water-based pure acrylic or silicon acrylic sealant if prolonged contact with\u00a0water is not anticipated. These sealants are flexible enough to adapt to minor fluctuations in the\u00a0substrate, stretching in gaps that widen slightly over time. They also adhere to a wide range of interior\u00a0and exterior building materials, including wood, ceramic tile, concrete, plaster, bare aluminum, brick and
\nplastic. With glass as the substrate silicon sealants are most suitable.
\nNOTE: Silicone sealant should not be painted.<\/p>\n

SURFACTANT LEACHING:<\/strong><\/em><\/span>
\n\"surfactant\"Concentration of water-soluble ingredients on the surface of a water-based paint, typically on a ceiling\u00a0surface in rooms that have high humidity (e.g., shower, bathroom, kitchen); may be evident as tan or \u00a0brown spots or areas, and can sometimes be glossy, soapy or sticky.
\nPOSSIBLE CAUSES:<\/strong> All water-based paint formulas will exhibit this tendency to some extent if applied\u00a0in areas that become humid (bathrooms, for example), especially in ceiling areas.
\nSOLUTION:<\/strong> Wash the affected area with soap and water, and rinse. Problem may occur once or twice\u00a0again before leaching material is completely removed. When paint is applied in a bathroom, it is helpful\u00a0to have it dry thoroughly before using the shower. Remove all staining before repainting.<\/p>\n

TANNIN STAINING:<\/strong><\/em><\/span>
\n\"tanninBrownish or tan discoloration on the paint surface due to migration of tannins from the substrate through\u00a0the paint film. Typically occurs on “staining woods,” such as redwood, cedar and mahogany, or over\u00a0painted knots in certain other wood species.
\nPOSSIBLE CAUSES:<\/strong> Failure to adequately prime and seal the surface before applying the paint. Use of\u00a0a primer that is not sufficiently stain-resistant. Excess moisture escaping through the exterior walls, which\u00a0can carry the stain to the paint surface.
\nSOLUTION:<\/strong> Correct any possible sources of excess moisture (see Efflorescence and Mottling). After\u00a0thoroughly cleaning the surface, apply a high quality stain- resistant oil-based or acrylic latex primer. Oil based\u00a0stain-resistant primers are the best type to use on severely staining boards. In extreme cases, a\u00a0second coat of primer can be applied after the first has dried thoroughly. Finish with a top quality latex\u00a0paint.<\/p>\n

WRINKLING:<\/em><\/strong><\/span>
\n\"wrinkling\"A rough, crinkled paint surface, which occurs when uncured paint forms a “skin”.
\nPOSSIBLE CAUSES:<\/strong> Paint applied too thickly (more likely when using solvent-based paints). Painting\u00a0during extremely hot weather or cool damp weather, which causes the paint film to dry faster on top\u00a0than on the bottom. Exposing uncured paint to high humidity levels. Painting over a contaminated\u00a0surface (e.g., dirt or wax).
\nSOLUTION:<\/strong> Scrape or sand substrate to remove wrinkled coating. If using a primer, allow it to dry\u00a0completely before applying top coat. Repaint (avoiding temperature\/humidity extremes), applying an\u00a0even coat of top quality interior paint.<\/p>\n

Y<\/strong><\/em>ELLOWING:<\/strong><\/em><\/span>
\n\"yellowing\"Development of a yellow cast in aging paint; most noticeable in the dried films of white paints or clear\u00a0varnishes.
\nPOSSIBLE CAUSES:<\/strong> Oxidation of solvent-based paint or varnish. Heat from ovens, radiators and\u00a0heating ducts. Lack of light (e.g., behind pictures or appliances, inside cupboards, etc.).
\nSOLUTION:<\/strong> Top quality water-based paints do not tend to yellow, nor does non-yellowing varnish.\u00a0Solvent-based paints, because of their curing mechanism, do tend to yellow, particularly in areas that are\u00a0protected from sunlight.<\/p>\n