{"id":539,"date":"2012-09-05T15:25:23","date_gmt":"2012-09-05T19:25:23","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.bottompaintstore.com\/blog\/?p=539"},"modified":"2022-10-14T10:36:23","modified_gmt":"2022-10-14T14:36:23","slug":"repair-gelcoat-scratch","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.bottompaintstore.com\/blog\/gelcoat\/repair-gelcoat-scratch\/","title":{"rendered":"How to Repair a Gelcoat Scratch, Cracks or Hole"},"content":{"rendered":"

When looking at a scratch in the gelcoat<\/a>, you need to determine whether it is a surface scratch or a deep scratch. The reason being is that surface scratches can easily be buffed with a rubbing compound<\/span><\/strong><\/span><\/a> <\/span>as opposed to deep scratches which take a couple more steps. As long as the gelcoat<\/a> around the deep scratch is in good condition, you will be able to use gelcoat putty<\/b><\/span><\/a> , requires mixing MEKP<\/a> catalyst<\/a>-once mixed properly it can be worked with a putty knife for filling, or you can make one using gelcoat<\/span><\/a><\/strong> <\/span>and an aerosil filler\/thickener<\/span><\/strong><\/a>. Once the filler is applied, the service will be uneven so sanding and polishing will be necessary. Customers report wet sanding with 2000 grit worked well. Everything about the repair of the scratch is fairly easy to do.<\/p>\n

For deeper gouges, you will need to purchase gelcoat<\/span><\/a><\/span> in various colors. Tints<\/span><\/a><\/span> are available as well if custom matching larger quantities of gelcoat<\/a> or paste. The kit will contain everything you need to do the job including some tints for matching. Some find the gouge needs to be scraped deeper with a screwdriver or Dremel tool\u00a0to open it into a wide V to make sure the gelcoat<\/a> has a place to settle and more permanent.\u00a0 If you simply cover the cracks they may continue to spread. The \u00a0gelcoat<\/a> that exists on the boat is already bonded with the laminates that are underneath. That being said, you will have to rough the surface up a bit with sand paper in order to give the paste something to stick to. Please note that you need to clean the surface with acetone<\/span><\/a><\/span> after sanding to clean any contaminates off that may interfere with the filling process.<\/p>\n

When the damage is a larger (like a screw hole) you made need\u00a03M’s Preminum Marine Filler<\/span> <\/a><\/span>or 3M Marine High Strength Repair Filler<\/span><\/span><\/a>. These are for bonding and filling repairs above or below the waterline and can be sanded. Some customers prefer to mix some thickener (cabosil)<\/span><\/a>\u00a0and gelcoat<\/a> to a thick consistency. Both of these products can be applied with a spreader. If coating over with gelcoat<\/a> be sure to leave space (about 1\/8 inch) for the gelcoat<\/a>. Splash Zone epoxy<\/a> is easy to use for large areas underwater for all substrates.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

For puncture holes through the gelcoat<\/a> or several holes have been drilled through and need filling you can also consider using the Hawk Epoxy System<\/a><\/span>. See information on how to choose the Hawk Epoxy kit.\u00a0\u00a0<\/a><\/span><\/p>\n

If the underlying problem for the hairline cracks is not handled, re-gelcoating over them will only be a temporary fix, such as a soggy core or broken support. The cracking has stemmed from a crack below the gelcoat<\/a> and in the fiberglass. This is one option to repair those cracks:<\/p>\n

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  1. Using a Dremel tool, remove the gelcoat<\/a> on either edge of the crack, all the way down its length. Basically this widens the gap and reveals the fiberglass layer beneath.<\/li>\n
  2. Determine if there is a crack in the fiberglass. If there is, it needs to be filled with a putty containing fiberglass strands. Duraglas Fiberglass Filler is one option.<\/li>\n
  3. Apply Gelcoat<\/a> to the area. Can be brushed, rolled, or spray applied.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n

    Once you have the gelcoat<\/a> mixed, saving the hardener<\/a> for last, begin to spread over the gouge with a plastic spreader. Since the paste will shrink slightly as it dries, make sure you put a little extra paste on the \u201cwound\u201d. A slight bulge will be ideal after the paste is applied. As the paste will not cure completely in the air, you will need to put a plastic film over it. If your kit does not have one, shrink wrap or wax paper will work. Tape the plastic\/wax paper on all sides over the paste and let dry for 24 hours.<\/p>\n

    After the 24 hours are up, remove the plastic\/wax paper. Take a piece of 400 grit sandpaper accompanied with a 3M sanding block<\/a> and begin to level any areas that are raised and uneven. It will help if you have a bucket of water or water hose handy to wash away the excess material as you sand. Once you have completed the sanding with the 400 grit, you will need to now use a 600 grit sandpaper to go over the repair. The reason this is being done is to eliminate any scratches the 400 grit may have put in the repair and smooth it even more. You will continue this process moving up to a 800 grit and then a 1200 grit. Occasionally you will want to dry the repair area just to get an idea of the work you have done so far.\u00a0 At this point you can wax and buff<\/a> the repair.<\/p>\n